My smoothing plane is a Lie-Nielsen No. I am a huge fan of this steel. that it is my first choice now when planing diagonally across a board (such as when using a jack plane to take off highs). © 2013 - 2017 Wood and Shop Productions & Joshua T. Farnsworth | All content on WoodAndShop.com is copyrighted and may not be reprinted or used without our written consent. I also picked up a couple of wood Jack planes including a No. See my If you plan on also buying a dedicated smoothing plane and a dedicated jointer plane (the other bench planes) and this plane will only be used for rough stock removal (like it is for me), then there is no need to tune this hand plane up much. If you use a cambered blade (8-10 inch radius) and open the mouth wider, then large chips can move through quickly. You can For woodworkers that don’t have a large tool budget, I recommend starting out with a vintage Stanley Bailey No. But don’t worry, in this article I’ll try to simplify this for you and show you which handplanes to get first, which ones can wait until later, and which ones you may never need.Below I’ll start off by briefly introducing you to the three main handplane categories: Bench Planes, Joinery Planes, and Molding Planes.In this woodworking hand tools buying guide article I’ll be discussing the hand planes that you need when starting out in traditional woodworking.
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In fact, I think you need only nine to handle all the smoothing and joinery chores for most furniture (the moulding planes are a different story....). Just read through my handplane guide.WoodAndShop.com recommends products, with links to online stores, some of which are part of affiliate programs. 0000005473 00000 n
Hand planes make the most exciting changes to your wooden work piece. 4 1/2 planes are reproductions (with improvements) of the Stanley Bed Rock No. Just curious, how do you know they are “top of the line quality” if you haven’t been able to read reviews? 0000008994 00000 n
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Love your videos too.
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The price ranges anywhere from $15 to $50 (I wouldn’t pay more than that).A No. But to be honest, I have larger hands, and have no problem using a No. Stanley or Lie-Nielsen No. 0000009846 00000 n
This design can better prevent “chatter”. 0000031892 00000 n
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I’ll cover those further down on this page.If you don’t feel the desire to rehab a Jack plane, then you’re in luck. 5 Jack Plane. These payments are very helpful to us, and add no additional fees to our users, so we are grateful for anyone who uses the affiliate links. I pulled out a box of my father’s old tools and I found a treasure of tools including Stanley No. 0000002923 00000 n
I used this information in searching out and buying startup tools for woodworking with hand tools. Like Chris, I don’t have a sink in my shop, so the idea of waterstones has never appealed to me. Thanks to your numerous articles, I recently purchased some Stanley planes: a #4, #5½ , a #71 router, and a #50 combination plane. A Stanley No. “scrubbing” a board). 4 1/2 or 604 1/2 smoothing plane. If you have normal to larger size hands then the No. 0000040850 00000 n
The combination of the metal stop and Doe's Foot in stabilising a board is just so profound (!) As I mentioned above, this video will help you to get a super-tuned handplane. If you like a heavier smoothing plane to give more power, then go with the No. Handplanes come in many different shapes, sizes, and materials. Any product claim about a service or product should be verified with the manufacturer.Lost your password? And you can purchase another iron from Lie-Nielsen and sharpen it at a very high angle (around 50 degrees) for when you’re ready to start planing difficult, figured wood grain. 2 smoothing planes are very small, and are really not very usable for most people (except in special circumstances) and are mostly for collectors, as they are rare. 0000004643 00000 n
NINE ESSENTIAL HAND PLANES WITH CHRISTOPHER SCHWARZ SEPTEMBER 25-26, 2010 You don't need hundreds of planes to build nice furniture. It’s the rehab method that I use on most of the handplanes in If you have small to medium hands, then the No.
This can save you some money. It just doesn’t feel as stable as a flat sole jointer plane. 5 Jack plane should predominantly be used for flattening boards via rough stock removal (i.e. You can also certainly use it as a “Fore Plane”, to flatten board surfaces if you don’t want to purchase a dedicated But I recommend that budget-conscious beginners start out with a vintage No. 0000043558 00000 n
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< If used with a straight blade (or even just slightly cambered / arched), with the mouth closed down tight, it can also be used like a smoothing plane and it can also be used as a jointer plane, for flattening and truing the edges of boards up to three times its length (any longer and you’ll need an actual jointer plane). I write this mail, because I’m disappointed with the results with my #50. But to be honest, I’ve found that a highly-tuned Stanley Bailey plane works very well, without chatter. Chris Schwarz has a nice DVD called “Super-Tune a Handplane” that can help you restore and sharpen a handplane. If you opt for a machinist square, make sure your 12 inch is a combo. Unfortunately the “extra-extra-fine” DMT doesn’t leave an edge that I am happy with for things like paring chisels and smoothing plane blades, so I have been looking for a final honing solution.
Have people told you about them?They are top of the line.
62 version over the antique Stanley No. 4 or No. 8 Jointer plane are pretty much unnecessary if you have a No. 101, 103, 4, 3 handplanes. 0000002596 00000 n
6 fore plane and Stanley No. 0000001152 00000 n
My bench planes are little changed. While 6 inch combination squares are not as common, I find them to be a more useful size: big enough for accuracy, yet small enough to not get in the way. 4 1/2 smoother, a wooden coffin smoother (very inexpensive, but I love them), or (if your budget permits) a new The Lie-Nielsen No. 4 or No.
603 smoothing planes will work best for you.
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